Body Damage & Panel Repair
Dents, creases, accident damage and rust put right and refinished.
Read moreVehicle painting & paintless dent removal
Two very different answers to a damaged panel. We will tell you honestly which one your car needs — and PDR, where it works, keeps your original factory paint completely intact.
Refinishing
Colour matched, not close enough
A respray is only as good as the colour match. We start from your vehicle’s paint code, mix and tint in-house, and spray test cards that we hold against the actual panel in daylight before the car is touched.
Where a colour is difficult — metallics, pearls and reds that have faded with age — we blend into the adjacent panels so there is no hard edge for the eye to catch.
- Single panel and partial resprays
- Full vehicle resprays
- Scratch and scuff refinishing
- Lacquer peel and clear-coat failure
- Paint-code matching and in-house tinting
- Metallic and pearl finishes
- Blending into adjacent panels
- Flatting and machine polishing
Paintless dent removal
Keep the paint your car left the factory with
Where the paint surface is unbroken and we can reach behind the panel, PDR is almost always the better answer. Specialist rods and tapping tools work the metal back to shape from underneath — no filler, no primer, no paint, and nothing for a future buyer’s paint-depth gauge to find.
- Door dings and car park dents
- Hail and storm damage
- Shallow creases along a panel
- Trolley and bike-handle knocks
- Original paint left untouched
- Often finished the same day
- Protects resale value
- Available as a mobile visit
When PDR will not work: if the paint is cracked or chipped, if the metal is stretched or creased sharply, or if the back of the panel is sealed and unreachable. In those cases a conventional repair and refinish is the honest answer, and we will say so.
Our process
How we refinish a panel
Paint is mostly preparation. The spraying is the short part.
Prepare
The panel is flatted, feathered and cleaned. Anything that is not being painted is masked properly, not taped over roughly.
Match
Paint code, in-house mix, test card held against the panel in daylight. Only then does the gun come near the car.
Spray
Primer, colour and lacquer, each with proper flash-off between coats. Rushing this is exactly how a repair ends up looking like a repair.
Finish
Cured, flatted and machine polished, then checked in good light before you see the car.
Questions
Paint & PDR questions
Is paintless dent removal cheaper than a respray?
Usually, yes — and it is quicker. There is no filler, primer or paint involved and often no drying time, so many PDR jobs are finished the same day. The catch is that it only works when the paint is unbroken and we can get behind the panel.
Will you paint the whole panel or just the damaged bit?
Whichever gives the better result. A small chip in the middle of a large flat panel can often be spot-repaired and blended. Damage near an edge or across a body line usually means taking the whole panel, because a hard paint edge in the wrong place is far more visible than the original damage.
My lacquer is peeling on the roof and bonnet. Can that be fixed?
Yes. Clear-coat failure cannot be polished out — the lacquer layer has broken down and has to come back to a sound base before the panel is re-primed, coloured and re-lacquered. It is a bigger job than it looks, but it is a permanent fix.
How long before I can wash the car?
Leave it a couple of weeks before machine polishing, waxing or a pressure wash close to the repair — fresh paint keeps hardening after it leaves us. A gentle hand wash is fine straight away. We will remind you when you collect it.